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文：陈得胜

小时候最甜美的回忆，就是一醒来走到厨房就看到灶头对盖着两只碗，母亲会说：“灶头那碗猪油饭端去吃。”这时我就像箭头般射过去，又快又准地将上面的碗掀开，露出油亮亮、香喷喷，拌上酱油的猪油饭；我还会试探性地用筷子拨一下，哇！黄澄澄的颜色露了出来，对着我微笑——母亲打了颗蛋在里面！这碗猪油饭的美味就是平方加上立方，好奢华，吃了整天回味无穷。

也不知从什么时候开始，大家不再炸猪油了，改用沙拉油、植物油、橄榄油。想吃猪油饭只能特地到怀旧餐馆，但猪油饭就是要放在灶头才美味，餐馆厨房做出来的猪油饭哪能比呢？

有次跟母亲聊起这件事，年迈的她倏然精神抖擞起来，说：“这还不简单，明天早上我去市场买块肥猪肉回来炸油，做猪油饭给你吃。”隔天早上，母亲果真做好猪油饭加蛋，仍用两只碗对盖。她催促我赶紧吃，说瓦斯炉不像灶头能保温。母亲终究老了，微颤的双手做出来的猪油饭已不复当年水准，我却觉得美味不减，不断向母亲竖起大拇指称赞，让她网罟般脸庞绽出笑花。

某次病癒后，母亲也执意要我像小时候一样吃稀饭配她自醃的菜脯和酱瓜。望着帮我添菜的母亲，不禁愧疚起来。父母生下我时年事已高，从小被外人误以为是祖父母的次数都数不清了。知道我怕丢脸，母姊会时她便请大姊替她去……尚在沉思，母亲忽然敲敲自己的头说：“想再拿一罐酱破布子给你配，就是不知道放在哪里了？老了真健忘！”其实健忘的是我，这些年来我把母亲从小对我的慈爱几乎都忘了。

如今我却都没忘，母亲离世逾八年，我想再吃她做的猪油饭和醃菜已不可能，这些母亲的味道，只能不断在记忆中回味。